Pompeii

Full Disclosure.

We are back in the States! We are so ridiculously happy to be home. And to finally be catching up on some much needed Zzz's. However, I still have a treasure trove of good stories to share about our European adventures! Each time I hopped onto a plane, train or bus, I would pull out my tiny toy-like computer and go mad typing about the day's wild experiences. So with that being said, I have a few more tales I'd like to share with you... like this one:

Pompeii.

We had a big day. Traveled from Rome, stopped in Naples for a hot minute (and for a pizza!), and then trained down to Pompeii to see the oldest preserved city in the world. Post-Pompeii, we drove further down the coast to crash on the Amalfi Coast for a bit.

But for now, let me just tell you about Pompeii. Because wow.

History.

In 79 A.D., Mount Vesuvius erupted and emptied itself out over the city of Pompeii. Because of this shocking and unprecedented event, the entire population was caked in lava and thus, has been preserved for mankind to explore for over 2000 years. Absolutely incredible. I mean, really really sad (I would never wish for a people group to get wiped out by a volcano eruption), but incredibly informing about life back then. It's an archaeologists' playground. It's also holds many amazing and strange parallels to the world as we know it today. Back then, people lived in big houses. They had kitchens. They had gardens. Fireplaces. They decorated with mosaics. I mean, we do all of that today! It was really amazing to see such OLD ruins and think about the hundreds and thousands of years of life that have gone on, all the while that pile of rubble has just been sitting there. Baking in the salty air and sunshine. It just blows my mind.

So we explored the giant preserved city. It was hot. We found some gelato (praise the Lord for SOME updating to Pompeii) and we cooled off. I'm not a scientist or a serious history buff, but I was fascinated by this site and learning about the people back then. Being able to see where they walked (those cobblestones are seriously worn), how wide their doorways were (not very, ha), what kinds of kitchen utensils they used (all preserved!) was just really humbling.

// Don't freak out. These are casts made from the erupted material found in Pompeii. Excavators found that there were hollow spaces in the debris (where bones and flesh of people once were) that were long disintegrated. The air space formed a hollow, a "mould" which allowed archaeologists to fill the mould and see what peoples' last positions were. Kind of freaky, yes. But incredible, too. //

// Mmm we rocked our Merrells and Rick Steves Audio Tours with pizzazz. //

Mmm Reflections.

This rambling tour made me realize that all people, well, they are just people. No matter which era they lived in, no matter which language was spoken or which deity was honored. Whether it was 2000 years ago or 20 years ago or 20 minutes ago, we all need air to breathe. Water to drink (sometimes wine, let's just be honest.) And a good laugh, for the love of God. Oh, I am so thankful. Pompeii has made me thankful for this gift I often take for granted. Go ahead, take a deep breath and hold it in. Just for a moment. Feel your full belly and hear your heartbeat. Think of the few, most important people in your life and how truly beautiful they are. Now exhale. Realize, this tiny bit of life is an absolute miracle. Go on now. Enjoy your God-given day!

Naples. The Best Pizza. On Earth.

Napoli.

Naples could be described as the seedy underbelly of Italy's tourism gelato cake. People don't go to Naples to tour around and see museums. Naples isn't “on the map” for American tourists, who only want to see the sparkly and romantic Italy. Naples is chaotic, sweaty, dodgy and dirty. Naples is loud. Naples is grimy. Naples is exciting and infuriating. Somehow even endearing. But more than anything, Naples is home to the world's greatest pizza.

Named for the Queen Margherita, the first pizza of the world was, you guessed it, the Margherita pizza. Even the Italian flag commemorates its greatest culinary discovery: the red represents the homemade tomato sauce, the white represents the bufala mozzarella cheese and the green represents the fresh basil.

“Put on your fight face, Hale,” I warned, as my husband and I walked purposefully toward our unknown, yet highly anticipated, destination.

We had an address, but I dared not pull out my shiny white iPhone in this dodgy neighborhood around the Naples train station, even to double check the street name. We were looking for a pizza place; apparently THE pizza place. This was supposed to be the best pizza in the world.

“You can't let people see your vulnerability. Why don't you channel Sylvester Stallon?” I barked at my annoyingly smiley spouse. He just turned and looked evenly at me. “It's just gonna be okay, Kris,” he replied.

Ugh. He's so good at keeping a level head. And I am so good at blowing heads out of proportion. But our dear Roman friend Alessandro warned us about the area around his favorite Napoli pizzeria just as enthusiastically as he recommended it, and I take safety extremely seriously. So I had on my fight face. And my sunglasses. And my most masculine gait. I was walking like a gladiator, tearing through the streets. The intense humidity, and thus my outpouring sweat, only added to my swarthy effect.

“But we look like tourists!” I hissed back at him. (For visual affect, I need you to imagine each of us lugging enormous backpacks strapped around our waists and shoulders, chunky tennis shoes, pit stains and not-very-well-concealed moneybelts. Rick Steves would be proud. Coco Chanel would not.)

It didn't matter. Twenty seconds after this intense conversational exchange, we stood beneath the holy sign that read “Da Pellone” and my faux streetwise act was long forgotten. We were here. This was like finding the holy grail. Pizza in the greatest place on Earth: Napoli.

We ordered. We waited. And then it came. The beautiful ruby, cream and emerald pie of goodness. After one last glance of long-awaited anticipation, we dove fork-first into our respective quarters of the pizza pie. And oh.

Oh. My. God.

No flurry of smartly arranged explicatives can express the rapture of this moment. No combination of clever adjectives. No sound bites, photographs or video footage could ever commemorate this incredible encounter. Nothing. It's all in my head, in my taste memory, and that is where it shall remain. The pizza was to die for. I will forever long for it. I will always appreciate it's expression of Heaven. I will always try to describe it, and I will woefully do it an injustice with my mere human attempt. This pizza. The sauce, the cheese, the crust... what are they DOING to the pizza in Naples?! Some say its in the water. Some say its the use of fresh ingredients. Some swear by the mozzarella, others by the tomatoes. I can't tell you what it is. I am a lowly American, raised on Digorno and Dominoes. But my palate has been fully awakened, and I can tell you with extreme red, white and blue pride that the pizza in Naples is THE BEST PIZZA IN THE WORLD.

(The photos are minimal, and here's why. I pulled out my phone to snap a quick photo for a mere second, and our mafia-esque waiter looked in my direction and I almost peed myself. So... sorry. I was a little afraid for my life in the ghetto of pizza Heaven.)

Rome: The Vatican and St. Peters' Basilica.

Cue the Choir.

Wow. I'm not sure that there are words to use. St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican is just. Well. Stunning. Magnificent, really. It's an overwhelming work of art. It kind of makes you scratch your head. This is definitely the most expensive thing I've ever come in contact with.

// I just found these guys so funny. //

Vatican.

We spent like 7 hours in Vatican City, roaming through the endless museum rooms filled with amazing sculptures and art. Then we transitioned into the wondrous Sistine Chapel, where my buddy Michelangelo painted his masterpiece on the ceiling of the church, depicting major scenes in the Christian faith. That guy. I just want to pinch his cheeks. No photos were allowed in there (no bare shoulders or talking, either!) but we gazed up at the ceiling until our necks gave out. Then it was Italian coffee time. Praise report.

What up, St. Pete?

After the Chapel we made our way into St. Peter's Basilica, the most outrageously lavish church (or place, for that matter) that I've ever encountered. I mean, let's just talk about the gold. This place has GOLD melted into the walls, the ceiling, the floor, the sculptures... which are so great in number that they cloud your periphery. It's mega. This is a mega church. The basilica was also designed by Michelangelo (and was based on his study of Rome's gigantic Pantheon, remember? Ah, you are learning with me, I love it.) There are alters in every nook and cranny. Mary has celeb status. Peter is buried in the church (along with a zillion other popes) and we had the rare opportunity to walk downstairs underneath the church and see all the crypts of those buried there. Kind of weird, yes, but there have been SO MANY popes. In life. It's a wonder. Learning is just awesome.

Recap.

We had a most spectacular (and exhausting) day in Vatican City. But it is not to be missed. The art is incredible. If the sheer extravagance of this place offends you, just readjust how you think. Appreciate this place for its significance in human history and for the incredible art that was commissioned for the some of the world's most phenomenal artists. Including my boyfriend. Michel.

St. Peters Basilica from Kristen Hale on Vimeo.

Seriously. There aren't enough words.

Rome: The Caesar Shuffle.

Welcome to Roma!

What a first day to spend in this famous city. We bought a pass (per the perfect instruction of Rick Steves) to visit the Colosseum, the Forum and the Pantheon. So that is just what we did.

Colosseo.

The Colosseum was unbearably hot. And really really crowded. Is it bad that that is what I remember from our tour there? I guess my American-ism has to shine through at some point. But it is an amazing structure where mostly barbaric entertainment was celebrated. So that's interesting. Time to re-watch Gladiator.

The Forum.

This tour really stands out in my mind. It is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING that we are able to tour Ancient Rome. I mean, Rome is where we (when I say “we”, I mean society at large) get everything: education, culture, democracy, SO many social practices, religious practices... I mean whoa. The list goes on and on and on. Rome ruled for 1000 years, from 500 b.c. To 500 a.d. That is a seriously long time. I mean, the U.S. Has only been it's own country for like 230 years. Being able to walk the city that was at one time SO PAGAN and housed so many people who shaped history. It's just mind boggling. Being able to see where Julius Caesar uttered those epic words, “Et tu, Brute?”, where he was assassinated, and then finally where he was laid to rest... well, that's just pretty epic. To be able to walk through the same doors as Constantine, Caligula and Cicero. To gaze up at the statues of pagan gods that the Romans actually worshipped... it really helped connect some Old Testament dots for me. This trek was a thrill.

// The Forum. Ancient Rome. //

// Julius Caesars' abode. //

// Old. So old. //

The Pantheon.

Okay, now this is really interesting. Remember how I gushed over Michelangelo in Florence? Well, the Pantheon is an ancient structure that inspired young Michel, so much in fact, that it inspired his dome design for St. Peter's Basilica. He used to sit in the Pantheon, staring up at the freakishly cool ceiling and sketch it. Sheesh. It is just SO COOL to see what inspired the glory out of that man. He was so incredibly talented... I am majorly crushing on him. I am about 600 years too late to profess my love directly to him, so you folks will probably get to keep hearing about it. Over and over. My husband is already over it. Anyways, back to the Pantheon. It's this mystical structure and no one has ever been able to figure out exactly how it was constructed. It began as an interfaith spiritual hub where anyone could come and worship anything, since the Romans served around 30,000 gods. Once Constantine legalized Christianity as the national religion, the Pantheon fell into disrepair. A few hundred years later, it was officially converted into a Roman Catholic church. Out with the statues of gods and in with the statues of Mary. It is still used today for mass, weddings and, ya know, tours.

// Pantheon //

// Pantheon interior. Boss. //

Oh Caesar.

Rome is a city unlike any I've ever seen. Each corner of this town is dripping with such incredibly meaningful history. It would take years to actually get a good grasp on it's roots, so for now, I shall just enjoy the energy of this town and appreciate it's gelato. I've been really appreciating the gelato. You might be getting sick of me telling you that, but it won't change the fact that it's true! My new fave is pistachio. And limone. And stracciatella.

Caio bella!

Siena: The Rival.

Siena. Tuscan Hill Town.

So the tale goes like this:

Florence and Siena were rivaling towns. They didn't have established borders between each village, so they decided to make a contest out of it. Obviously. Each village was to send out their fastest rider at the first morning's "cockadoodle-doo!" by the local rooster. Wherever the riders met along their path, that is where the land would be divided between the two villages. Florence, being mischievous, chose to use their town's deranged bird (who was constantly crowing), as their starting pistol. This rooster would crow all through the night, thus giving their rider an incredible head start over Siena.

That is how the cities of Florence and Siena divided the land amongst them.

I have no idea if this story is true. I read it off the back of a menu while sitting outside at a restaurant in Tuscany. It was hilarious to me. Yes. I might have been drinking a vat of wine at the time. But anytime there is a story written on a menu, YOU KNOW YOU HAVE TO READ IT. It's usually some of the best reading you can find. K moving on.

Day Trippin.

Stevie and I drove from our Tuscan abode down to Siena for a day trip and I am so thrilled that we did. Not only did we meet dozens of lovely people and eat even more gelato than I thought humanly possible, we got to experience this ancient city with such an interesting history. The town is surrounded by a gigantic stone wall, which makes it feel like a fortress (Helms Deep, anyone??)

The interior of the village has a humongous stone plaza where children (and greedy birds) can play as they wish. I could imagine myself living in one of the tiny village homes and sending my kids out to play; being able to watch them from the window and knowing that nothing harmful could happen to them, as they would be literally walled in. The setting looked like a movie, but it was even better because it was obviously real. People really lived there a thousand years ago, and people still reside there today. What a special town, set up high in the hills, surrounded by wine country and it's impressive, ancient wall.

// Caught this little fella mid-flight. //

// Gelato faces. A store that made me miss my mom... //

All the best Tuscan wishes to you.